Getting Off the Beaten Tourist Track in Italy's Northern Lazio

Last week we were fortunate to have the opportunity to experience real Italian life in some "undiscovered" places in Northern Lazio. Wednesday we were invited by author and Italian resident, Mary Jane Cryan, to a lunch and concert in the giardino segreto, secret garden, at her friend's house in Vetralla. They occassionally organize these lunches for groups of tourists so that they can have the experience of going to a home and eating a lunch cooked by an Italian.

Mary Jane showed us her beautiful palazzo that she restored and the city hall, full of history.  Then we had a leisurely lunch, excellently prepared by her friend Fulvio, and enjoyed music by some local residents. This is a great way to get away from the usual tourist restaurants and really experience some Italian life. For travel information on Vetralla and northern Lazio or to get information about the many books Mary Jane has written, you can visit her web site, Elegant Etruria. 

Continuing with our Italian life experience, we were guests for two nights at Fontana del Papa, in a beautiful rual area of Northern Lazio, unfrequented by tourists. Although billed as a bed and breakfast and cooking school, it is really much more. Here you become part of an Italian family during your stay, usually a period of 4 days or a full week. Assuntina and Claudio (who speak English) will pick you up at the airport or train station, take you sightseeing, prepare your meals, and spend time talking with you, telling you about the area and just getting to know you.

Assuntina said she wanted a place where foreigners could get away from the usual tourist activities and experience real Italian homelife as well as learn some Italian cooking taught by an Italian. Starting with a farmhouse ruin, Assuntina and Claudio have worked hard  to make this dream come true.

Northern Lazio Travel: Northern Lazio Map | Northern Lazio Resources

_{Photo of Fontana del Papa © James Martin, Europe for Visitors, licensed to about.com}