Fontana del Papa Italian Cooking School and Lodging

Fontana del Papa, the Pope's Fountain, is an Italian cooking school and bed and breakfast in the countryside of Northern Lazio. But it is really more than that. At Fontana del Papa you become part of an Italian family and get to experience real Italian life away from the tourist crowds. You don't even need a car to get there - they'll pick you up at a Rome airport or the Civitavecchia train station or port.

Cooking classes at Fontana del Papa are taught by an Italian who also cooks the meals. Assuntina, the owner, told me that most cooking classes in Italy are really run by Americans and are more costly. Here you learn cooking from Italians in an Italian house.

Cooking classes are small and flexible with students having a say in what they learn to make. The day I visited, the class was making ravioli stuffed with ricotta and truffles. Each student made the dough and formed it into ravioli with assistance from the teacher. When one student couldn't quite get the hang of the ravioli, the teacher helped him turn his dough into pappardelle. She even made a quick sauce to go with his pasta so it could be served at lunch along with the ravioli. Whatever is made during the morning class is served for lunch.

Students come for 4-day or 1 week sessions. There's also a unique program where students can be picked up in Civitavecchia and spend the day at Fontana del Papa, cooking, eating lunch, and seeing a bit of the countryside. It's a great way to spend a day in port on your cruise or take a daytrip from Rome.

Assuntina was a French teacher in the nearby town of Tolfa when she decided she wanted to have a place where foreigners could get away from the usual tourist activities and experience real Italian homelife as well as learn some Italian cooking taught by an Italian. She and her husband Claudio bought a 16th century farmhouse, little more than a ruin, surrounded by olive and fruit trees. They beautifully and lovingly restored it preserving many of the original features.

When Assuntina opened her doors to guests and started her cooking program in 2004, neighbors in Tolfa thought it was a crazy idea. They don't understand why anyone would go on vacation to learn how to cook. But Fontana del Papa has guests nearly year round, even at Christmas.

When's the best time to go? Assuntina says in the fall because the days are still nice but at night guests can sit inside and enjoy the fireplace. It's very romantic.

Besides cooking classes, excursions are planned depending on the interests of the guests. You may be taken to see the Etruscan tombs at Tarquinia, to the town of Montefiascone on Lake Bolsena, or to the local farmer's market in the village of Tolfa. You can also take the train into Rome for a daytrip.

Your stay includes a buffet breakfast and hearty Italian lunches and dinners. Much of the fruit and vegetables is grown in their own garden. You may get to watch as they cook pizza in a wood burning oven, or even learn how to make it yourself.

Claudio is a trained sommelier and one evening he'll share his knowledge about Italian wines in a tutored wine tasting. He'll explain how to taste wine, what makes a good Italian wine, and when to drink different wines.

The main attraction at Fontana del Papa is really to spend some time relaxing, enjoying the wild countryside, and experiencing Italian life with a family. You really get to know the people you're staying with rather than just being a guest at a hotel. Besides Assuntina's family, you'll meet other guests from all over the world. Many former guests stay in touch with Assuntina and her family.

Fontana del Papa has 5 guest rooms with private bath. Two of the guest rooms share a sitting room. Guests have access to the living room, dining room, patio, and outdoor areas. They're currently working on a swimming pool which should be done by summer of 2007.

You can choose either a 4 day or 1 week cooking program, complete with meals including wine. Minimum stay for bed and breakfast is 2 nights. Assuntina said that one night is too short of a time for people to get to know the family and the area.

Fontana del Papa is in Monti della Tolfa, an off the beaten track part of Northern Lazio. The area is rich in Etruscan sites, wildlife, and natural beauty. Fontana del Papa makes a good base for exploring Northern Lazio, southern Tuscany, and Umbria.

As is common in the travel industry, the writer was provided with complimentary accommodations for the purpose of review. While it has not influenced this review, About.com believes in full disclosure of all potential conflicts of interest. See our ethics policy.

As is common in the travel industry, the writer was provided with complimentary services for review purposes. While it has not influenced this review, About.com believes in full disclosure of all potential conflicts of interest. For more information, see our Ethics Policy.