Emperor Septimius Severus, who ruled Rome between193 and 221 A. D., built his residence in what is now the San Giovanni neighborhood, with a private theater-in-the-round -- of imperial proportions! Little is left of the imperial residence, but Rome's only other amphitheater (besides the Colosseum) still stands-with a few centuries of worthy additions to it.
The Castrense Amphitheater now seems flawlessly camouflaged into the Aurelian Wall. Its arches have been filled, its height reduced and it is only accessible through a monastic vegetable garden gate (and a secret church built in the walls --- but that is another story!). Once inside, the amphitheater is a marvel.
